India: In a Curryish State of Mind 

Curryish Tavern – 783 Queen St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1G1
Country: India  
Seating: Only indoor seating
Must-try dish:  Ghee Confit Duck Leg + Foie Grass Curry
Dinner guests: Chef Charles, Wine Genie & Pornstar Sam 
The high: The owner and chef comes out to greet all the tables. 
The low: If you’re looking for traditional Indian fare, this isn’t the place for you. 

In celebration of Diwali this week, Mandrea Bike and friends dined at Curryish Tavern – a modern Indian restaurant that’s newish to the Toronto food scene on Queen Street West. There are influences from outside of India in the recipes but the base of each dish retains its Indian origins. 

The owner and chef Miheer Shete not only makes delicious food, but he also takes the time to come out to chat with the tables about his creations in the kitchen. It adds a personal touch that’s missing in a lot of the city’s restaurants. That same welcoming attitude is expressed by his manager and staff to each table. 

Indian dishes make dining family-style so easy. We started with the Celery Root + Parsnip Pakora, which are spiced fritters that are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The Coconut Upama Fries were another great finger food for the table that consist of massive, “fries” stuffed with warm lentils and curry leaves that come with a ginger flavoured ketchup. 

A round of oysters is never a bad idea – these east coast molluscs go under the name Canadian Oysters Chaat at Curryish Tavern because they are topped with a tangy tamarind sauce in the shell and pieces of crispy sev which are crunchy noodles made of chickpea paste. It was a new way to eat an old favourite, and we loved it! 

The most interactive of the starters was the ​​Yellowfin Tuna Tartare Pani Puri, which consists of a chunk of raw tuna in a crispy shell. You must pour a sauce inside the shell and put the entire thing in your mouth quickly, otherwise the sauce will drip all over your hands. The result – a sweet, savoury, crunchy, and velvety party in your mouth. Some of us were better at eating these than others, the less experienced of the group may have made a bit of a mess.

Finally, the Mirch Maple Glazed Pork Belly + Uttapam looks like a taco but according to the chef it was inspired by a bao. The rice and lentil base is topped with a mint chutney, pickled onions, and pork belly. 

As for the main dishes, the Ghee Confit Duck Leg + Foie Grass Curry stole the show. It’s a leg of duck stuffed with duck confit for richness slow cooked in a Maharashtrian-style curry that was bright yellow in colour and decadent in taste. A close second was the Molasses Braised Beef Cheeks Curry – a spicier curry with tender pieces of beef and onions. Beef dishes aren’t common on Indian menus, so this was a pleasant surprise. 

The third stew was the Goan Chorizo + Braised Pork Shoulder Curry. Unlike the other curries, this one was textured with double smoked bacon, kidney beans, roasted parsnips, and pickled apple pieces (a South Indian classic). All this with a slow-cooked piece of pork for good measure. 

We decided to shake things up with the Smashed Lamb Bhuna Burger, which is a royalty as far as burgers go. It’s minced lamb meat topped with cheese and lettuce and packed with Indian flavours in every bite. The Masala Fries that accompanied the dish are addicting, to say the least. Next time you’re in the mood for a burger, immediately head to Curryish Tavern. 

The desserts were just as exciting as the rest of the meal. The Screech Rum Soaked Stuffed Gulab Jamun is a creamy cake topped with whipped mascarpone cheese, rum sauce, and pistachios. The second treat was a Tender Coconut Pudding + Red Plums that comes on a ginger molasses cookie topped with a fluffy coconut cream dressing and mint. 

It’s hard to beat this restaurant in Toronto, it’s in a central location, and the customer service is terrific. 

Hot Tip: Curryish Tavern does a three-course set menu and wine pairing every year to celebrate Diwali. You won’t want to miss it next year! 

Eat with you soon, 

Mandrea Bike
(Mat & Andrea)

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