Kabsa Mandi Restaurant – 1063 Danforth Ave, Toronto, ON M4J 1M1
Country: Yemen         
Must-try dish: Lamb with Mandi rice 
Dinner guests: Suited Sebastien & Tante Elise
Seating: Indoor seating only. 
The high: This is exactly the type of place that inspired us to start the blog – we learned about a country’s cuisine and then ate it, while talking about the country and surrounding region with people from there, all while still being in downtown Toronto. 
The low: Don’t believe everything you see online – they take cards for payment, you don’t need a reservation (but should have one), and the menu is better when you eat in than the one online. 

“I am the moon,” announced Muneer, the owner of Kabsa Mandi Restaurant in the middle of our meal. He certainly was a guiding light from the instant we stepped into the unsuspecting Yemeni restaurant on the Danforth, which has been operating for 13 years at a couple different locations in the neighbourhood. 

There are a few tables and a constant rotation of people coming in to enjoy Yemen’s culinary delights as there aren’t many places in Toronto serving the country’s dishes in a home cooked setting. If you look online, the Google listing will tell you to book a reservation, which seems unlikely, but in reality, there’s a lot of preparation involved in making a Yemeni feast, so as much notice as possible is the recommendation approach here.

Leaving your fate, and your dinner in Muneer’s capable hands is how things are done. He’s so proud of his nation’s cuisine and wants to share it with everyone. So much so that he often declares that it’s the best food in the world. Although he isn’t far off, we do think you should go taste for yourselves. 

Muneer manages the front and the back of house with his daughters, but mostly he loves to handle it all on his own between entertaining the diners and converting them to a love for Yemeni cuisine at the same time. Upon entering, he quickly got us a table and suggested we all have a bowl of bone broth soup while we waited for the rest of our party. This was an excellent suggestion. 

Between a chicken and a lamb soup, we opted for the lamb which was a clear soup with spices and mint. Although it would be good any day of the week, it would be even better on a day you aren’t feeling well. The mint was a subtle enhancement in the flavoring that went a long way. This was paired with the beef samosas, which were tiny three bite pockets of minced spaced beef wrapped in a thin phyllo pastry. Of all the samosa fillings, this was the most enticing, but judging from the rest of the meal, all are good. 

Things only went uphill from here as Muneer brought out two gorgeous plates of salad to cleanse our palates and introduce vegetables in an otherwise meat and carb heavy meal. A hearty salad isn’t common in Yemeni culture, except for in the upscale restaurants in the capital city of Sana’a, so it was a glimpse into the fancier diets of Yemen’s elite. As much as we loved it, and ate it quickly, we’re looking forward to the next two dishes that highlight Yemen’s culinary philosophy. 

As the dinner progressed, so did the dishes. The Mutabak was new to all of us, and despite resembling a quesadilla, it’s quite different in taste. It’s typically found at street stalls in the south of Yemen, and translates to mean “folded” in Arabic. Picture a flatbread with minced beef, vegetables, eggs, and spices topped with another flatbread and then cooked. Muneer treated us by sneaking some cheese into it, which was much appreciated, and likely not traditional. Similar to many Yemeni dishes, there were pieces of lime to squirt over it for some acidity. 

The grand finale was a force to be reckoned with, it’s what Yemen is famous for and the namesake of the restaurant – the mandi rice. This isn’t just any rice, it’s seasoned and cooked with raisins, nuts, ginger, garlic, and herbs. The rice itself is unique from others in that it’s elegantly long and thin, yet firm. Perhaps this influences the taste, but it absolutely improves the experience. 

Mandi rice always comes with meat – chicken, lamb, beef, you name it. In Muneer’s kitchen, chicken and lamb are on offer, and they’re slow cooked with the bones and the fragrant rice. It’s some of the most tender meat you’ll ever eat. This medley comes on a silver platter, and you just attack it until you can’t eat anymore. There will always be leftovers. OR Muneer’s personal advice was to do as as Yemen “Attack for 20 minutes! Don’t give your stomach the chance to register that you’re full!”

The best thing about the rice are the textures that distinguish it from other rice dishes. Every bite is unique, be it from the raisins, nuts, ginger, or meat. Each bite tastes different from what ingredients you get on your fork. It’s an experience like nothing else. 

We tapped out, but not before drinking a special drink – it’s a blend of fresh lime (the whole lime, rind and all), mint, evaporated milk, sugar and ice that makes up the most refreshing mocktail or post dinner treat. It’s perfect to sip on during a summer day, or after a big meal on a Monday night! 

As promised, Muneer delivered a plate of Masoob – a Yemeni dessert made with banana bread, cream, and honey. The base is a texture bread made with bananas then topped with cream and honey with fresh banana slices on the side. It wasn’t overly sweet, but the most anticipated thing was the honey because it’s rumoured to be the best in the world, and could cure you from any woes. Hailing from the Yemeni desert, it’s a small production that is unparalleled to other honey operations. It was really good, and we did feel energized, so there’s a chance this is true. A pot of warm tea helped to wash it all down. Eating this honey was compared to drinking a Red Bull, without the inevitable crash associated with high levels of caffeine.

All this to say, Kabsa is worth checking out for dinner or takeout. Let them know in advance because the rice and meat can take a long time to cook to perfection. If you have an option, go in and see what Muneer’s delicious operation is all about, and you’ll likely have a few laughs over the course of the meal. 

We came across an article in the Toronto Star from a few years ago that gives more details about Muneer and the restaurant that might be an interesting read. The first part talks about how difficult it was to chase down Muneer for an interview – a surprise judging from his friendly and outgoing personality. Interestingly enough, we had a little trouble tracking him down too but finally made it for one of our favourite dinners of the year. It’s worth the chase. 

Eat with you soon, 

Mandrea Bike
(Mat & Andrea)